Bar Bruno in Wardour St, usefully open into the evening with nice chalet-style booth seating, don't be put off by the cruddy 70s logo nor the interminably long waits to be served; the lost, lonely, legendary Lorelei in Bateman St, usually deserted, always appealing... Soho's premiere rickety utility Italian caff retreat; Rosa's in 12 Hanbury St E1, the birthplace of music hall legend Bud Flanagan, this gem is hidden round a blind corner near the Spitalfields market. Well worth seeking out not only for the Flanagan shrine inside, but also the ceiling details, behind-the-counter artifacts and awesomely cheap food. Gilbert & George signed ephemera also!

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